Designs of the Day | Vivienne Westwood | Neil Barrett | Veronique Leroy | Celine

Celine Spring '14

Phoebe Philo is a juggernaut. Season after season she attacks silhouette and fabrication with a relentless drive. She has been so inventive and effective for so many seasons now it makes me wonder when people will began to realize that she is heading towards legendary status.

Vivienne Westwood Spring '14

Ah Dame Vivienne how do I love thee, let me add this to the counting of the ways. She always attacks the preconceptions of what you expect to see on a garment and where you expect to see it.

Veronique Leroy Spring '14

It would ultimately fall to how this fabric felt, moved, and held up to decide if this design is successful. That said it is beautiful and the natural feel of the striping is very eye catching. Bravery incarnate.

Neil Barrett Spring '14

Neil Barrett is one of the least talked about sparkling talents in the fashion industry. He and his designs are not flashy or trend bound. What they are is beautiful, simple, and remarkably powerful.

Designs of the Day | Talbot Runhof | Dior | AF Vandevorst | Haider Ackermann

Haider Ackermann Spring '14

The amazing disheveled debutantes of Spring '14. So cool they're smoldering, so refined they're raw. 

AF Vandevorst Spring '14

I usually scoff at the idea of luxury urban streetwear and it's really not entirely what An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx are focused on but this look is really intriguing to me.

Christian Dior Spring '14

Playing with volume around a woman's hips and ass is a dangerous game. If the tailoring isn't done just right it will not sell for obvious reasons. When done correctly it creates a marvelous sense of elegance and freedom. Raf is right on it. 

Talbot Runhof Spring '14

An elegant fabric, a beautiful silhouette and a clever trick with the chest panel make for a memorable gown in what was a spectacular collection.

Designs of the Day | Issey Miyake | Jay Ahr | Chalayan | Yang Li

Issey Miyake Spring '14

Stiff fabrics are usually very intimidating to designers, they don't drape and they tend to resist forming in a way that compliments movement. The perforated leather skirt above is the stunning result of what happens when it's done right.

Jay Ahr Spring '14

The shape of skirts of the times, done in a great print and matched with a nicely sporty jacket. Young designers take note, Jonathan Riss' handling of his inspirationally derived theme elements is perfect. Consistent throughout but doesn't overpower the clothes.

Chalayan Spring '14

With Hussein Chalayan the temptation is to hunt for the technical innovations, a dress that balances your checkbook or the like. It's easy then to miss the times that he's subtly brilliant. The ruching on the dress above is beautifully balanced and it has one of the most delicately slight ombres I've ever seen.

Yang Li Spring '14

The great driver of fashion is the cultural evolution of women. Evolution will regularly take quantum leaps forward, miss one and your "new" collection will seem ancient. Stay in stride with her and you will be off on a wild and successful ride.