Thursday, October 31, 2013

Designs of the Day | Aurelio Costarella | Shakuhachi | Alice McCall | AJE |

Shakuhachi Spring '13 (Aus)
It's the combination of modern elements that put this design ahead.

Aurelio Costarella Spring '13 (Aus)
Australia's reigning king of, "racewear", for us that's red carpet, My friend Aurelio is in the middle of having his 30 year career celebrated in Australia. 

Alice McCall Spring '13 (Aus)
Cutting at a couture level. 

AJE Spring '13 (Aus)
There's a romantic dishevelment that is infused in all of Adrian Norris and Edwina Robinson's designs. 

Wednesday, October 30, 2013

Designs of the Day | Conspiracy |

In one season Gianluca Tamburini moved shoe design forward at least one decade. I can't even imagine what he'll do next.




Mardi Gras

Tuesday, October 29, 2013

Designs of the Day | Kara Ross | Gemma Redux | Ariane Zurcher | Mari' Tome

Mari' Tome, Raccolto necklace
Maressa Tosto Merwarth designs pieces that explode with self expression. Her play with line and shape creates tension and energy. 

Rachel Dooley, Gemma Redux, Apocalypse Ring 
Rachel's designs have naturally refined over the seasons but the path her work has taken since her raw crowded early pieces has been enjoyably unpredictable. 

Ariane Zurcher, Vesta Collection
A beautiful imagination that results in naturally shaped pieces with a balance of vitality and tranquility. 

Kara Ross, Petra Collection
A touch of wildness adds spice to Kara's designs. She always adds that one unexpected touch that fascinates. 

Monday, October 28, 2013

Designs of the Day | Logan Neitzel | Dusen Dusen | Morgan Carper | H Fredriksson |

I am often asked what do I feel earmarks an emerging designer for success. The answer is the ability to make a living from your designs without a huge marketing budget and when not being touted as the next big thing. With that in mind take a look below at who I am and have been paying attention to:

Morgan Carper Winter '14
Morgan Carper cuts very well and uses fascinating prints and fabrics to elevate her collection. Her collections are increasingly dead on target for her client.

Dusen and Dusen Winter '14
Ellen Van Dusen's work is racked all over NYC as well as internationally and has great sell through. She has a deft touch, adding design elements to her shapes that make them and their wearer stand out from the crowd.

H Fredriksson Winter 14
Helena Fredriksson's clothing has a dark beauty about it. Her silhouette choices always allow for movement and her fabrics have a depth and complexity about them that is bewitching.

Logan Neitzel Winter 2014
A Project Runway survivor who's shown the admirable ability to dodge all of the fashion industry's bullshit and build a solid business with private clients and extremely high quality small run production. He has one of my favorite aesthetics in NYC and I suspect in a few years will be even more well known. 

Sunday, October 27, 2013

Designs of the Day | Beara Beara | Embawo | Bracher Emden | Arbol De Viento

Embawo Fall '13

Norbert Öttl and Verena Lusser create some of the most striking shapes I've ever seen. And as testament to their skills despite there being a wood element to their bags they are extremely lightweight.

Bracher Emden Fall '13
I worked with Bracher Emden in 2013 and they create such stand out designs season after season it's a wonder that they are not more widely known.

Beara Beara Fall '13
Old world craftsmanship par excellence with a refined sense of style. I challenge you to find more beautiful backpacks. And backpacks are only a fraction of what they create.

Arbol De Viento Fall '13
A beautiful bag by a beautiful company with a beautiful message.

Saturday, October 26, 2013

Designs of the Day | Giuseppe Zanotti |

Giuseppe Zanotti Fall '13

Giuseppe Zanotti Fall '13

Giuseppe Zanotti Fall '13

Giuseppe Zanotti Fall '13
Be Said

Friday, October 25, 2013

Designs of the Day | Azede Jean Pierre | William Okopo | Minju Kim | Michael Lo Sordo |

William Okopo Spring '14
In a collection whose power came mostly from print it was this design that made the biggest impact on me. I'm hopeful that next season the sisters Okopo will show more play with shape and structure.

Michael Lo Sordo Spring '14
Another serious talent from Australia.
The technique applied to the center of the leather creates a wonderful controlled draping effect.

Azede Jean Pierre Spring '14
One to keep a close eye on here in NYC. Incredibly high technical skill level and a growing comfort in her own aesthetic.

Minju Kim Spring '14
The fantastical and fearless Korean has gained worldwide exposure in 2013. I'll be paying rapt attention to see what she does with it in 2014.

Thursday, October 24, 2013

Designs of the Day | Francesco Russo Spring '14 |

A great talent formerly at YSL & Sergio Rossi strikes out on his own.

Francesco Russo Spring '14
A very detailed design balanced with a simple and beautiful wood heel.

Francesco Russo Spring '14
The gold piping really helps the cage become part of the whole shoe rather than a garish tack on.

Francesco Russo Spring '14
Francesco Russo spring/summer 2014
A razor thin stiletto with a graceful and dramatic heel cup, what's not to love?

Francesco Russo Spring '14
Francesco Russo spring/summer 2014
A very current cut for the bootie. It's the split back top that puts this look over the top. 

Wednesday, October 23, 2013

Designs of the Day | Chromat | Larisa Lobanova | Natalia Kaut | Gwen Shihyao Lai |

Gwen Shihyao Lai Spring '14
From the Academy of Art show at MBFW. The natural dye process combined with the raw fabric and unstructured shape create a romantic rustic feel.

Chromat NYC
The legend of Becca McCharen continues to grow. right now New York fashion needs creators who think differently, I'm glad she's with us now.

Larisa Lobanova Spring '14
A clever and warming color combination in a very modern fabric. 

Natalia Kaut Spring '14
Kaut you looking. Oh shut up, tell me you could resist that. A sexy and aggressive look in a sexy and slick fabric. 

Tuesday, October 22, 2013

Designs of the Day | Amanda Harrison | Felix Boehm | Sinjing Chen | Chisung Ihn

Chisung Ihn Debut
Bunka Fashion Graduate University Japan - Chisung Ihn
The influence of ground breakers of the past is obvious but so are Chisung's incredible fabrication skills.

Felix Boehm Debut
Wish I could have a found a better shot of this piece but if this is what's next in fashion then I already love the future.

Sinjing Chen Debut
The strong sculptural techniques speak to the pure ability while the subtle hand with graphics speaks to a mature level of restraint.

Amanda Harrison Debut
Don't be fooled by this young talent's love of stunning prints. Her construction skills are just as strong.

Monday, October 21, 2013

Designs of the Day | Ellery | Les Copains | Christine Phung | Andrea Icontri

Ellery Spring '14
This outfit is full of so many great construction choices and the fabrics for the skirt and for the blouse are superb.

Christine Phung Spring '14
Muted geometric play combined with texture and in interesting striation on the pants. A very dynamic look overall. 

Les Copains Spring '14
Proof positive that you don't have to reinvent the wheel to make great fashion. There isn't a single technique on this dress and cincher I haven't seen before but it's perfectly proportioned and balanced.

Andrea Incontri Spring '14
I saw a great deal of transparency this season and this is another lovely example. A  marvelous gauzy fabric with just a hint of color. 

Sunday, October 20, 2013

Designs of the Day | Loris Diran | Diego Binetti | Ermanno Scervino | Genny

Diego Binetti Spring '14
IMG 3852 Runway Report: NYFW S/S 2014
Diego Binetti is a friend, a friend who designs some of the most romantic and joyous clothes I see each season.

Loris Diran Spring '14
Loris is also a dear friend but is there any doubt that this dress deserves exposure?

Genny Spring '14
Sara Cavazza Facchini's collection was, and I mean this in a good way, very Italian. It was the sexy and romantic pants that pulled me towards this outfit.

Ermanno Scervino Spring '14
A dark and powerful look from a very strong collection.

Saturday, October 19, 2013

Designs of the Day | Victor Alfaro | Theia | Dusan | Jerome 5:31 |

Dusan Spring '14
Dusan Paunovic created a wonderfully textured collection for Spring. If it's possible to be elegantly moody, and I suspect it is, this is what it looks like rendered in fabric.

Victor Alfaro Spring '14
In baseball a pitch that breaks so sharply that it is unhittable is often referred to as, "filthy", meaning underhanded. Ladies and gentleman Victor Alfaro's Spring '14 collection is so striking it's filthy.

Theia Spring '14
Don O'Neil is a seriously, seriously talented man. His designs are bold but balanced and he really knows how to captivate the imagination.

Jerome 5:31 Spring '14

A collection full of intriguing details and design choices. Jerome Lamarr is a man to mind. 

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