Friday, November 29, 2013

Designer of the Day- Julian Fournie

Fashion is afraid of sex. Fashion has a very tortured and ugly relationship with the sexuality of women. When designs leave the comfortable parameters that we have established for them all hell breaks loose. We still like women to accept roles that were created for them by men. You can be the country girl, the femme fatale, the school teacher, or the cheerleader but don't define yourself sexually if you're a woman. Yet we ultimately break down and celebrate the provocateurs who do provide the wardrobe for a woman to aggressively take charge of her sexuality. We call them horrible names and ban them for the first five years, then, if they survive, we're throwing retrospectives by the time they hit ten years. Julian Fournie is such a designer. His play with material, silhouette, and exposure mark his work as sexual but in a complicated way. In some designs you can't see a lick of erogenous skin and the woman never feels objectified. His clothes amplify rather than comfortably categorize a woman's sexuality. They are also being presented at the rarefied level of Paris Haute Couture which further complicates the relationship. I think Julian Fournie is incredibly healthy for fashion. Do you?

Fall '11 Couture
Julien Fournie
Haute Couture Fashion Show
Winter 2011 2012
His styling always adds an attitude of predatory aggression.

Spring '12 Couture
Note where the color tipped and longer plumes are coming from.

Fall '12 Couture
Elongating lines are a staple. They add stature and power.

Spring '13 Couture
His cuts are most often tight.

Fall '13 Couture
The elegant dominatrix.

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